jeLLOw pAgeS,工具。

Wednesday, June 23, 2021

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, the main body。點翠髮簪,紀錄(六)。


It's difficult to say how many layers they are on the main body since they are overlapped with each other, and this is how the ornament is formed. The shape of the ornament and the pattern look symmetric, however, it is not mirror-like if you look into the details. There are subtle differences between the pieces at left and right, such as the locations the sizes of them. The ornament looks symmetrical by adjusting the supporting wires that soldered to each motif piece at back.

很難認定這支髮簪的花片有幾層,因為髮簪的花樣雖然基本上是對稱的,但總是在小細節處有些變化;另外,即使是花樣對稱的花片,左與右兩邊的上下、高低位置其實不太一樣⋯⋯很好,難怪妳這麼美。



Most of the supporting wires are shaped like the idea of a coil, and I assume that this is not only made adjusting the motifs easier and more precisely, but also gave more spring to the wires so each motif quivers while the wearer is walking / having movement. The supporting wires are soldered to a curved bronze bar, which is the main structure of the ornament.

從側面可以看見,花片的支架是以銅線捲繞而成的;利用金屬的彈性,讓花片在佩戴者活動的時候,有顫動的效果。所有的花片支架是焊接在一支弧形的青銅棒上,藉著調整支架銅線的曲度與位置,使花片們交疊錯落,成就了這支髮簪的樣貌。



I unwrapped the wires (anti-wrapped-wise) and straightened them for later works, and found that there are some 'extra' wires wrapping to the supporting wires.... for more strength (maybe).

我將捲繞的銅線逆著原來捲繞的方向小心轉開,慢慢移動拉開銅線,讓每一張花片有自己的空間,結果發現銅線彼此之間,還有一些是之前用來修補、加強用的小銅線,與花片支架緊密纏繞著⋯⋯繼續解索。



欲知後事如何,且看下回 分 解。

Let's take a break.


Monday, February 08, 2021

Shyan and Lex。塔西躲貓貓貓。


This is a set of rings for a girl, a boy, and their cat. A tuxedo cat.

自由創作與量身打造其實是相同的事情,但是思考方向相反,也各有不同的有趣之處。每次收到委託,除了有一種慎重的心情之外,這次還多了受寵若驚的感覺⋯⋯被欣賞的人欣賞超開心^///^

這對婚戒,屬於男女主人,與他們養的貓。塔西躲貓是雙色貓的一種,毛色的分佈就像是穿著燕尾服/而得名,尤其是指黑色+白色,也就是常聽見的「賓士貓」。於是決定使用兩種不同顏色的材料製作這對婚戒:白K與紅K(玫瑰)金,為貓的臉。


另外覺得開心,也很謝謝這對男女主人,選擇使白K金的原色-淡黃色。一般白K金物件的銀白色,其實是的顏色(電鍍層)。電鍍讓金屬有了更豐富的樣貌與呈現方式,但是偶爾會想:如果有機會,一定要展現白K金原色的美麗!紅K金是亮眼而溫暖的,白K金則是柔和且純淨,正如同他們的味道。作品藏不住人。

謝謝你們:)

Happy marriage and Happily Ever After!

Tuxedo Cat Handmade 塔西躲貓貓



Friday, December 18, 2020

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, the pin。點翠髮簪,紀錄(五)。


The pin is attached to the main body by wrapping wires and sealing wax. Detaching it is easy since it's an old hairpin and most parts of it are collapsed.

珠子是找到了,不過,先瞧瞧髮簪本體的狀況。

簪與花片是分開的,藉著銅絲纏繞+松膠固定。已經脆化的松膠塊,用鑷子輕輕地夾住、挑起,就粉碎脫落、露出青色的銅綠;再將固定用的銅絲,一圈圈(或一段段⋯⋯)解下來,簪與花片分開,然後,就是比較複雜的部份了。



待續。


Done. To be continued.


Saturday, July 25, 2020

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, the beads。點翠髮簪,紀錄(四)。


There are loops and wires at the back of the hairpin. They are not only the structure for the hairpin layers but also how the beading is set on the hairpin. In addition, there are threads in different colour as well - the evidence that shows the hairpin owner(s) had done many repairs.

To repair the beading, the beads should be removed from the hairpin and cleaning is certainly needed.

髮簪的狀況分析大致告一段落了,接下來是各部位的拆解。

珠簾的狀況很單純:必須拆下來清洗、補齊遺失的珠子、重新編串。在髮簪的背面可以看見,珠簾是用棉線穿過已經固定在髮簪上的細金屬線所繞成的圈(細金屬線也是金屬花片的連接與固定支架),再以纏繞或打結的方式定位。看得出來它被修補過很多次⋯⋯除了已經散落的部份是原版棉線,還有其它顏色的線,包括用紅線包覆的、更細的金屬絲⋯⋯應該是覺得棉線容易斷,所以用金屬絲;但是為什麼要用棉線再包覆⋯⋯也許是因為金屬線很細+與金屬花片是相同顏色,如果是兩種顏色的線,可以讓修補工作比較容易?

是謎。



The loops are still there but some wires are broken or detached from the hairpin. There are wires that wrapped with thread and I have no idea about the reason for doing this.... maybe it is because the wires are so thin and the colour is the same as the hairpin layers, so it would make the repair much easier if there are two colours. There are also broken hoops that connecting to the loops and could be from earlier repairs.

把線拆下來之後看得更清楚,有些可能是更早的修補痕跡,也都已經斷裂。小心卸下。



All the threads and wires are removed and the beading is detached. Ready for cleaning. I did it with sodium bicarbonate.

鏘鏘(髒髒~)


本來打算用無患子,但是沒有了/改用小蘇打。先用筆毛輕刷。看得出來清洗前後的差別嗎(下左一的綠色石頭)?


百年塵埃落定,進行第二次的清洗⋯⋯換個盤子,對石頭與眼睛都好U///U


清洗前清洗後完全判若兩珠。我想起「一束白花」的故事。


They are in proper colours now!

下一步就是尋找補的珠子了。嗯⋯⋯接近一世紀之前的珠子嗎?(沈思)


Tuesday, July 21, 2020

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, the beading。點翠髮簪,紀錄(三)。


There are two parts of the beading on this hairpin: bead net and bead fringe, and two beads in different colour and shape are used: white beads are used for both the net and the fringe, and green beads are used only at the end of each string/fringe as a decoration.

Half of the beading is almost destroyed and the beads are gone, whereas the other half is in good condition so I could use it as a reference.

可能因為年代略早,也可能因為它沒有被好好地對待,髮簪的狀況除了金屬的部份損壞、珠簾串繩鬆脫,珠簾也散落了一半,珠子都不見了。幸運的是,另一半的珠簾完好依舊,所以看得見珠簾原本的模樣。把髮簪立起來看得更清楚些:


There are ten green beads. According to the good beading part I know there are five green beads on each side of the hairpin, and for the white beads, I will have to find out how the beading was made, then I should know how many white beads there are.

數學課開始了。

珠簾用了綠色與白色的兩種珠子,其中綠色的有十顆;對照完好的另一半珠簾與串繩固定的位置,可以得知綠色珠子沒有遺失/一邊五顆。白色珠子的數量則必須對照各分段的長度,重新計算。


 

It's not difficult but time and patience are needed. I was marking and making a diagram while counting and calculating so everything is easier.

這個步驟比較繁瑣,需要一段段數,找出它們排列與編織的邏輯,然後註記。一一標示之後再掛起來,畫結構圖,就一清二楚了。白色珠子至少有三百顆。


There are more than three hundred white beads are used for the beading, and about sixty beads are missing.

To be continued.

待續。


Monday, July 20, 2020

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, the body。點翠髮簪,紀錄(二)。


Apart from the feather, a bit of the left part of the hairpin body was also detached and only connected with few wires. I presume that this is one of the reason that the beading part is broken too therefore some beads are missing.

這支老髮簪損壞的狀況,大致分成三個部份。第一個當然是點翠,已經幾乎全部消失,只剩下還殘留在夾層之間的極少幾片。

第二個是珠簾。從髮簪的背面可以看見,珠簾串繩斷裂、有一半的珠簾幾乎脫落、珠子也遺失了許多。其中還有應該是原持有者的修補痕跡,但是狀況也不太好。

第三個是髮簪本體,其中一邊的金屬花片斷裂了,推測這可能也是造成珠簾脫落、損壞的原因之一。


I suppose that this is how it looked like:

與狀況比較好的另一邊對照,原本的樣子應該是如此:


Let's have a closer look.

髮簪全貌。



當初在介紹這支髮簪的文字中有提到:不可以違背文物修復倫理/不能破壞它。關於古/文物的修復,我大概有一些基本概念,但是並不完全,於是稍微做了一下功課。後來與館主碰面的時候,她說:其實這支髮簪,已經殘破到我可以不必理會是不是會違背修復倫理的程度了,就把它當成材料吧,讓它再美一次就行。

既然她都這麼說了,我當然就⋯⋯盡量朝著不違背的方向前進。

To be continued.


Saturday, July 18, 2020

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, intro。點翠髮簪,紀錄(一)。


Hairpins have been one of my favourite ornament because of the elegance, fineness, and the most important character: feminineness. I have got an old hairpin recently from my friend, who is hairpin collector and researcher. If you are interested in hairpins visit her online museum and you will see everything about hairpins.

髮簪一直是我很喜歡的飾物之一,覺得它是最女人的飾品,尤其步搖。好幾年前由於各種因緣際會發現/認識了髮簪博物館-一位因為「很喜歡髮簪」所以蒐集、學習、研究各種與髮簪相關的一切人事物,並且前往世界各地進行調查與交流的奇妙女子所成立的。在她分享的文字與相片之中,可以感受得到一個人熱愛一件人事物的心。作品是藏不住人的。


I found this hairpin in her collection / online shop few months ago. This is a Tian-Tsui piece but there is only a little feather left, since it is an old one (1900s) and might not be treated very well. Some parts of its body are broken too. The condition of the hairpin is poor.

之前在她的相簿裡發現了這件老髮簪。它是點翠髮簪,大約是清末民初的物件;但是年代久遠,現在只剩下髮簪的夾層之間,還有一點點殘餘的羽毛。她告訴我:「會買它是因為它快壞了,想把它修好。」。


I like creating, and I like repairing as well. They seem to be two very contrasting ideas, however, they could be one thing as they are having same steps but going different directions.

修復對我來說是一件非常有趣的事情。某方面來說它也是一種創作,而且是必須結合邏輯推理的創作,才能讓物件回復到它應該有的模樣與氣質,無論是日常用品的修復,或是創作、訂製物件回廠的保養與修復。但是面對㊣古物,我是(還)沒有經驗的。於是,當我看見這支髮簪在尋求修復的時候,猶豫了非常久,終於鼓起了勇氣說:我想挑戰。

待續。


I have finally volunteered for repairing this hairpin, and asked my friend for more details about the hairpin itself, and about conservation. This is new to me, and all I could do is doing my best.

Thanks to my friend, Miss Hairpin.


Wednesday, May 20, 2020

Carol and Stephen。貝樂一家。


'Kan-chiu', ring design for couples. Kan-chiu means 'holding hands', and the name for wife in Taiwanese.

牽手,執子之手,與子偕老。


這款設計是大學時期的創作,也是難得很喜歡的作品之一,因為它讓我經歷了:當想要將腦中的靈感與概念,畫/化為2D的想像、再製作成實體3D物件,應該如何思考與克服的問題點們,讓它能真正成為陪伴著・互相陪伴的人們的信物。謝謝超級好朋友對它的喜愛,讓我迠次是用自己的手將它化做真實!看見她/他們幸福真的讓我很開心💝💝我知道你們倆一定會像這組指戒一般,交錯著交疊著的手,一起守,一起走。

HAppiLy eveR AfteR tO Carol and Stephen💝💝



Thursday, April 11, 2019

Gem SHIHlica。石.寶。


Gem silica ring, re-design and make, again.

再次改款。

戒圍漸鬆,以致於佩戴的時候寶石會往兩邊滑動。然而直接縮小戒圍,是適合指根與指關節直徑相近的解決方案;對於指根與指關節直徑有些差距的手,我選擇了一個略瘋狂的做法:將戒環的寬度,減到盡可能窄。

戒環寬度改變,款式也得跟著調整,否則未必適合/好看。順應著「窄戒環」這條主軸,我將所有線條簡化、纖細,同時也降低寶石鑲座的高度,使它更貼近主人纖細的手指,並在細節部份做了修飾,讓寶石看起來更圓潤可愛也優雅。





Wednesday, April 03, 2019

Moo0on。朤。


The moon of hers.
The moon of hers.

The moons of yours.

The moon for her.
The moon for her.

The moons for you.


朤ㄌㄤˇ

字義:音、義與「朗」同。
部首:「月」。
總筆畫:16。
讀音:「ㄌㄤˇ」「ㄓㄠˋ」「ㄧㄠˋ」「ㄩㄝˋ」。


朗。照。耀。月。


It's her.


Monday, March 26, 2018

AnnyGood。安.好。


Have you found the secret that is hidden in the logo behind the coffee shop 'Anygood' on the 2nd floor at Ren'Ai Market, in the city centre of KeeLung, Taiwan?

她是個笑容爽朗、心思細膩的女子,純粹只為傳遞家鄉的、咖啡的、生活的,種種美與好,回到基隆,在最基隆的地方﹣嵌仔頂旁的仁愛市場,開了一攤小小的咖啡舖「Anygood」,多好咖啡。攤位後方的標準字招牌,藏著兩粒水滴。那是基隆的雨、是咖啡的液,也是滋潤著Anny與這個地方的水滴。


咖啡好喝。有多好喝,去趟多好就知道了。

If not, find the shop and the barista girl would tell you the story about the secret, and the story of anything about KeeLung.