RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin , the curve。點翠髮簪，紀錄（九）。

Upper: 1/3 arc length, lower: 1/4 arc length. Both of them are looking good, but I need more evidences. Let's check with the hairpin itself.

上面兩張是1/3圓周的弧度，下面兩張是1/4圓周的。光看線條，1/3的弧度柔和，1/4的大方。有由實物本人來進行比對之必要。

The bronze bar is collapsed and the curve of it is neither even nor smooth, however I am not sure if it was the whole piece damaged in different conditions, or it was just the left side broken. Comparison needed.

New clues are found. I put the hairpin on my drawings and check the curves, and it goes together precisely with the 1/3 arc length. The bronze bar is a 1/3 circle!

Really?

在比對的過程中發現新線索。這支髮簪雖然左邊損壞，不過右邊依舊完好—珠簾完整，所有的線結、串線都沒鬆、沒斷，也沒有斷裂的花片；而主結構青銅棒的弧度，左右兩邊的順暢感很明顯不一樣，但如果只是用左右兩邊的狀況做比對，很難判斷它是受損程度不同，或是只有一邊受傷。

結果，右邊青銅棒的弧線與1/3圓周根本重疊⋯⋯所以它就是1/3圓周了！（嗎？）

我還是試了一下1/4圓周的弧度。1/3圓周的兩端點距離，與1/4的只相差一公分，弧度線條也有部份非常貼近，要是1/4也並非不可能。在試的過程中又發現新證據：

To ensure that, I've tried to make it to fit the 1/4 arc length, and it appears that it is certainly a 1/3 circle. The bronze bar was not only 'fighting' against the force from me but even spilt a little when I was straightening it, and also due to the curve was straightened, the bottom layers that attached to the bronze bar were getting flat and other motif pieces became boring since all the delicacies were flattened out.

主結構青銅棒的線體本身是長方形的，但它並不是平面地往線體的長邊或寬邊直接被彎曲，而是有個斜度（三度空間概念）地彎。這個斜度讓花片的排列有了立體感，也讓珠簾不止是直線條垂墜，而是多了一種圍繞、包覆（頭或髮髻）的感覺。當我試著將青銅棒調整成1/4圓周的弧度，在施力的時候除了明顯地感受到青銅棒本人的「不悅」¹之外，底層花片組也逐漸變得扁平（它們看起來是平的，但是有一種微妙的立體感），其它花片的高低差也開始不對勁。於是我知道，它就是1/3圓周。

Moreover, the bronze bar itself is a rectangular shape flat rod and was bent with an angle, and by doing this ornament has a three-dimension structure (like a sphere). Therefore the bronze bar spilt a bit when I was straightening it because I didn't and couldn't anneal it since it's an object of virtu, and I suppose that I was bending against the structure too.

註¹：當金屬被塑形、並且保持形狀一段時間之後，如果沒有經過退火的程序就又被塑形，會有一種它在抵抗施作力的感覺⋯⋯經過每一次的塑形，金屬分子的結構變堅硬，想要直接再改變它的形狀不容易，必須（重複）退火軟化之後再繼續比較好（對物件與對施作者都是）。不過以修復物件來說，這種「回到起點」的處理方式並不太適合。

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin , the bronze bar。點翠髮簪，紀錄（八）。

It's time to find out how the bronze bar looked like.

概略地測量了各髮簪部件的尺寸，其中最重要的就是身為主結構的青銅棒，它的弧度決定整支髮簪的樣貌。但原來的弧度是什麼樣子呢⋯⋯？

只能推測了。數學課開始。

As the main structure of the ornament, the bronze bar is the most important part and would make the hairpin looks very different if the curve varies. Since I haven't got any photo of the hairpin, I think it would be easier if I considered that the bronze bar is an arc length of a circle then find out which circle is the most reasonable, and beautiful to it.

既然青銅棒是弧形，那麼就把它當成圓周的一部份來看待。我設定了幾種青銅棒vs.圓周長度的比例，再用3.14找出每個圓的直徑，然後與底層花片的長度比對，選擇最適合的弧度（畢竟無法確定它原本的模樣）。似乎有點多此一舉，但是覺得如此一來，之後在調整青銅棒弧度的時候比較有依據，線條會比較順、也比較美。

So I did some math and checked with the motif sizes at bottom layer, and decided that the bronze bar is either a 1/3 or a 1/4 circle (the other two choices are 1/2 and 2/5, but NG). Let's try and see.

最後在1/3與1/4圓周長度之間做選擇。兩者各有它獨特的氣質，實際調整的時候再決定（陷入障礙XD）。

其它的選擇是1/2與2/5。1/2圓周長度的兩端點距離比現在的還窄，2/5的兩端點距離的則是與現在的寬度幾乎相同，都不適合。

To be continued.

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, the pieces。點翠髮簪，紀錄（七）。

Let's look into the ornament:

拉開銅線之後，花片的整體結構就看得更清楚了：

The curved bronze bar is the main structure of the ornament, and there are six motif pieces soldered to the bar: a four-piece set above it and a two-piece set below. The sets are soldered alongside the bar (end-to-end) as a bottom layer, and they are the base of the ornament, as well as the foundation of the beading - there are nine loops on the connecting wire above the bar and the beading was secured in here.

弧形的青銅棒是主結構，最底層是六塊花片：四塊在弧上方（其中一塊斷裂脫離）、兩塊在弧下方。它們彼此之間是以銅線連結，然後將兩組花片的尖端，焊接到主青銅棒的兩端固定。

而那些看起來是用來加強、或固定珠簾用的各種纏繞，有一兩根其實也是花片。這些花片有自己的支架，但看起來應該是因為它們從原本已經焊接到主結構青銅棒的支架脫落，幫它們焊上新支架之後，並不是再焊接到主結構青銅棒上，就直接纏繞在原來的位置。全部一一解開。

As mentioned before, there are 'extra' wires wrapped to other supporting wires, and some of them are with the motif pieces. I presume that these motif pieces had detached from the supporting wires that had already been soldered to the main structure, and for some reasons the previous repairer soldered new wires to the pieces and simply wrapped them back to other wires on the main structure. All have been removed now.

前面提到最底層的花片彼此之間是以銅線連結，而兩組花片之間還有另一條銅線連接（靠近弧中間的位置）。這些銅線是次結構，（讓花片）順著主結構青銅棒的走向彎曲，沒有捲繞，也不太會顫動。在弧上方、四塊花片組的銅線上有小圈（×9），是用來固定珠簾的；弧下方的銅線比較單純，就是一條連通到底。不過看得出來，因為主結構被擠壓，花片也跟著變形變窄了，也才會造成這支髮簪一連串的傷。

It's getting clear.... the ornament is so damaged since the main structure is collapsed, and I presume that the pressure / squeezing came from the side since 1) the way the bronze bar crushed, 2) there is a motif piece at the edge of the ornament spilt from the main body (luckily it's not missing).

拆解至止告一段落，接下來是⋯⋯各種測量與記錄吧。待續。

To be continued.

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, the main body。點翠髮簪，紀錄（六）。

It's difficult to say how many layers they are on the main body since they are overlapped with each other, and this is how the ornament is formed. The shape of the ornament and the pattern look symmetric, however, it is not mirror-like if you look into the details. There are subtle differences between the pieces at left and right, such as the locations the sizes of them. The ornament looks symmetrical by adjusting the supporting wires that soldered to each motif piece at back.

很難認定這支髮簪的花片有幾層，因為髮簪的花樣雖然基本上是對稱的，但總是在小細節處有些變化；另外，即使是花樣對稱的花片，左與右兩邊的上下、高低位置其實不太一樣⋯⋯很好，難怪妳這麼美。

Most of the supporting wires are shaped like the idea of a coil, and I assume that this is not only made adjusting the motifs easier and more precisely, but also gave more spring to the wires so each motif quivers while the wearer is walking / having movement. The supporting wires are soldered to a curved bronze bar, which is the main structure of the ornament.

從側面可以看見，花片的支架是以銅線捲繞而成的；利用金屬的彈性，讓花片在佩戴者活動的時候，有顫動的效果。所有的花片支架是焊接在一支弧形的青銅棒上，藉著調整支架銅線的曲度與位置，使花片們交疊錯落，成就了這支髮簪的樣貌。

I unwrapped the wires (anti-wrapped-wise) and straightened them for later works, and found that there are some 'extra' wires wrapping to the supporting wires.... for more strength (maybe).

我將捲繞的銅線逆著原來捲繞的方向小心轉開，慢慢移動拉開銅線，讓每一張花片有自己的空間，結果發現銅線彼此之間，還有一些是之前用來修補、加強用的小銅線，與花片支架緊密纏繞著⋯⋯繼續解索。

欲知後事如何，且看下回 分 解。

Let's take a break.