jeLLOw pAgeS,工具。

Saturday, July 25, 2020

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, the beads。點翠髮簪,紀錄(四)。


There are loops and wires at the back of the hairpin. They are not only the structure for the hairpin layers but also how the beading is set on the hairpin. In addition, there are threads in different colour as well - the evidence that shows the hairpin owner(s) had done many repairs.

To repair the beading, the beads should be removed from the hairpin and cleaning is certainly needed.

髮簪的狀況分析大致告一段落了,接下來是各部位的拆解。

珠簾的狀況很單純:必須拆下來清洗、補齊遺失的珠子、重新編串。在髮簪的背面可以看見,珠簾是用棉線穿過已經固定在髮簪上的細金屬線所繞成的圈(細金屬線也是金屬花片的連接與固定支架),再以纏繞或打結的方式定位。看得出來它被修補過很多次⋯⋯除了已經散落的部份是原版棉線,還有其它顏色的線,包括用紅線包覆的、更細的金屬絲⋯⋯應該是覺得棉線容易斷,所以用金屬絲;但是為什麼要用棉線再包覆⋯⋯也許是因為金屬線很細+與金屬花片是相同顏色,如果是兩種顏色的線,可以讓修補工作比較容易?

是謎。



The loops are still there but some wires are broken or detached from the hairpin. There are wires that wrapped with thread and I have no idea about the reason for doing this.... maybe it is because the wires are so thin and the colour is the same as the hairpin layers, so it would make the repair much easier if there are two colours. There are also broken hoops that connecting to the loops and could be from earlier repairs.

把線拆下來之後看得更清楚,有些可能是更早的修補痕跡,也都已經斷裂。小心卸下。



All the threads and wires are removed and the beading is detached. Ready for cleaning. I did it with sodium bicarbonate.

鏘鏘(髒髒~)


本來打算用無患子,但是沒有了/改用小蘇打。先用筆毛輕刷。看得出來清洗前後的差別嗎(下左一的綠色石頭)?


百年塵埃落定,進行第二次的清洗⋯⋯換個盤子,對石頭與眼睛都好U///U


清洗前清洗後完全判若兩珠。我想起「一束白花」的故事。


They are in proper colours now!

下一步就是尋找補的珠子了。嗯⋯⋯接近一世紀之前的珠子嗎?(沈思)


Tuesday, July 21, 2020

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, the beading。點翠髮簪,紀錄(三)。


There are two parts of the beading on this hairpin: bead net and bead fringe, and two beads in different colour and shape are used: white beads are used for both the net and the fringe, and green beads are used only at the end of each string/fringe as a decoration.

Half of the beading is almost destroyed and the beads are gone, whereas the other half is in good condition so I could use it as a reference.

可能因為年代略早,也可能因為它沒有被好好地對待,髮簪的狀況除了金屬的部份損壞、珠簾串繩鬆脫,珠簾也散落了一半,珠子都不見了。幸運的是,另一半的珠簾完好依舊,所以看得見珠簾原本的模樣。把髮簪立起來看得更清楚些:


There are ten green beads. According to the good beading part I know there are five green beads on each side of the hairpin, and for the white beads, I will have to find out how the beading was made, then I should know how many white beads there are.

數學課開始了。

珠簾用了綠色與白色的兩種珠子,其中綠色的有十顆;對照完好的另一半珠簾與串繩固定的位置,可以得知綠色珠子沒有遺失/一邊五顆。白色珠子的數量則必須對照各分段的長度,重新計算。


 

It's not difficult but time and patience are needed. I was marking and making a diagram while counting and calculating so everything is easier.

這個步驟比較繁瑣,需要一段段數,找出它們排列與編織的邏輯,然後註記。一一標示之後再掛起來,畫結構圖,就一清二楚了。白色珠子至少有三百顆。


There are more than three hundred white beads are used for the beading, and about sixty beads are missing.

To be continued.

待續。


Monday, July 20, 2020

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, the body。點翠髮簪,紀錄(二)。


Apart from the feather, a bit of the left part of the hairpin body was also detached and only connected with few wires. I presume that this is one of the reason that the beading part is broken too therefore some beads are missing.

這支老髮簪損壞的狀況,大致分成三個部份。第一個當然是點翠,已經幾乎全部消失,只剩下還殘留在夾層之間的極少幾片。

第二個是珠簾。從髮簪的背面可以看見,珠簾串繩斷裂、有一半的珠簾幾乎脫落、珠子也遺失了許多。其中還有應該是原持有者的修補痕跡,但是狀況也不太好。

第三個是髮簪本體,其中一邊的金屬花片斷裂了,推測這可能也是造成珠簾脫落、損壞的原因之一。


I suppose that this is how it looked like:

與狀況比較好的另一邊對照,原本的樣子應該是如此:


Let's have a closer look.

髮簪全貌。



當初在介紹這支髮簪的文字中有提到:不可以違背文物修復倫理/不能破壞它。關於古/文物的修復,我大概有一些基本概念,但是並不完全,於是稍微做了一下功課。後來與館主碰面的時候,她說:其實這支髮簪,已經殘破到我可以不必理會是不是會違背修復倫理的程度了,就把它當成材料吧,讓它再美一次就行。

既然她都這麼說了,我當然就⋯⋯盡量朝著不違背的方向前進。

To be continued.


Saturday, July 18, 2020

RepAiRing pROject : Tian-Tsui hairpin, intro。點翠髮簪,紀錄(一)。


Hairpins have been one of my favourite ornament because of the elegance, fineness, and the most important character: feminineness. I have got an old hairpin recently from my friend, who is hairpin collector and researcher. If you are interested in hairpins visit her online museum and you will see everything about hairpins.

髮簪一直是我很喜歡的飾物之一,覺得它是最女人的飾品,尤其步搖。好幾年前由於各種因緣際會發現/認識了髮簪博物館-一位因為「很喜歡髮簪」所以蒐集、學習、研究各種與髮簪相關的一切人事物,並且前往世界各地進行調查與交流的奇妙女子所成立的。在她分享的文字與相片之中,可以感受得到一個人熱愛一件人事物的心。作品是藏不住人的。


I found this hairpin in her collection / online shop few months ago. This is a Tian-Tsui piece but there is only a little feather left, since it is an old one (1900s) and might not be treated very well. Some parts of its body are broken too. The condition of the hairpin is poor.

之前在她的相簿裡發現了這件老髮簪。它是點翠髮簪,大約是清末民初的物件;但是年代久遠,現在只剩下髮簪的夾層之間,還有一點點殘餘的羽毛。她告訴我:「會買它是因為它快壞了,想把它修好。」。


I like creating, and I like repairing as well. They seem to be two very contrasting ideas, however, they could be one thing as they are having same steps but going different directions.

修復對我來說是一件非常有趣的事情。某方面來說它也是一種創作,而且是必須結合邏輯推理的創作,才能讓物件回復到它應該有的模樣與氣質,無論是日常用品的修復,或是創作、訂製物件回廠的保養與修復。但是面對㊣古物,我是(還)沒有經驗的。於是,當我看見這支髮簪在尋求修復的時候,猶豫了非常久,終於鼓起了勇氣說:我想挑戰。

待續。


I have finally volunteered for repairing this hairpin, and asked my friend for more details about the hairpin itself, and about conservation. This is new to me, and all I could do is doing my best.

Thanks to my friend, Miss Hairpin.